Découvrez l'histoire des vins de Porto

Découvrez l'histoire des vins de Porto

Le vin de Porto c'est tout d'abord une référence à l'histoire du Portugal.

Une petite histoire des vins de Porto

Les aléas historiques ont constitué la notoriété actuelle des vins de Porto. Un des faits historiques les plus importants a été la décision de Colbert (premier ministre de Louis XIV) de taxer fortement les produits anglais au milieu du XVIIème siècle (1667). Cette taxation entraîna une réaction du roi d'Angleterre Charles II qui réorienta au profit des vins du Portugal au détriment des vins de Bordeaux, un commerce qui va devenir très juteux. Depuis le traité de Windsor en 1386, l'Angleterre et le Portugal ont scellé des accords commerciaux. Ceux-ci se verront renforcés quelques siècles plus tard (en 1654) entraînant de faits l'installation de nombreux marchands anglais au Portugal afin de bénéficier des droits de douane préférentiels. C'est le début de l'âge d'or du Porto et qui explique que de nombreuses maisons / négoces de Porto portent des noms anglais (Taylor, Graham, Dow, Ware). C'est en 1675 qu'apparaitra la première mention des vins de Porto. C'est l'ajout de brandy (nom anglais de l'alcool provenant de la distillation du vin) qui va faire la notoriété des vins de Porto. Cet ajout a été fait dans le but de faire supporter le voyage aux vins de Porto, plus important par rapport aux vins de Bordeaux (appelé alors Clairet). Cette vente connue des hauts et des bas notamment à cause des abus et fraudes à une certaine période et au phylloxéra qui ravagea aussi le vignoble du Douro. Il faut savoir aussi que les vins de Porto n'ont pas toujours été dans la forme que l'on connait aujourd'hui : en effet, le mutage ne s'effectue en cours de fermentation laissant des sucres résiduels que depuis 1852. Auparavant, l'ajout d'alcool vinique se faisait en fin de fermentation uniquement dans le but de protéger les vins dans le transport.

Penchons nous maintenant sur les différents types de Porto. Il existe deux grandes familles : les Ruby (milieu réducteur - vinification dans des gros contenant du type foudre - vieillissement en bouteilles) et les Tawny (milieu oxydatif - vinification en petit contenant du type barrique - vieillissement en fut). Les mentions portées sur les bouteilles permettent de mieux savoir à quel type de Porto on a affaire : c'est l'IVPD (Institut des vins de Porto) qui gère et organise la commercialisation des vins de Porto. Il est à noter que les vins portugais de Porto constituent d'excellents vins de garde notamment pour ceux qui subissent une oxydation. Deux des plus grands producteurs sont présents sur notre site : Ramos Pinto et Fonseca. Les portos peuvent accompagner aussi de jolis plats de la cuisine portugaise.

Comment choisir le vin de Porto ?

Les Portos de type réducteur

Pour les Portos en milieu réducteur (typé Ruby) et par ordre croissant de qualité :
- sans mention de millésime
- le Ruby : c'est le Porto le plus produit. C'est un assemblage de différents vins qui ont duré de vieillissement de 3 ans en moyenne.
- le Fine Ruby : c'est simplement une sélection plus affinée et plus qualitative de Ruby.
- le Reserva Ruby : on monte encore d'un cran sur la sélection. Les mentions Special et Finest ne peuvent figurer ensemble sur la bouteille. C'est un des moyens peu couteux pour se faire une idée d'un Porto Vintage. Par exemple nous vous proposons un Finest Reserve.
- Crusted : ce nom provient de la croute qui se constituait dans la bouteille à cause du dépôt. C'est un assemblage de vins de plusieurs années et un délai de 3 ans entre la mise en bouteille et la commercialisation. Ce sont des Portos rares mais la croûte n'apporte pas en soi de qualités organoleptiques particulières. C'est simplement une référence à l'histoire du Porto.
- avec mention de millésime
- le LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) : c'est un Vintage (il ne provient de vins que d'un seul millésime) mais dont le vieillissement est plus court (entre 4 et 6 ans) et se réalise dans des grands foudres en bois ou grandes cuveries en inox. Des mentions peuvent lui être apportées comme Bottled Aged (ou Matured) ce qui signifie qu'il a aussi subi un vieillissement en bouteille (au minimum de 3 ans).
- le Vintage : il est considéré comme le plus grand vin de Porto et ne représente qu'une très faible proportion de la production (2%). Il doit présenté des qualités organoleptiques exceptionnelles (alliant puissance et matière) pour obtenir cette dénomination. Il peut être bu jeune mais il est très intéressant de le garder de 10 à 100 ans (et plus) selon les millésimes. Les derniers millésimes exceptionnels : 2011, 2007, 2003 mais qui ne surpasseront parait-il jamais les très rares Vintage 1977 ou 1963. Il est conseillé de le carafer et de le consommer assez rapidement. C'est vraiment le Porto taillé pour la garde.
- le Colheita : très rare, c'est un vin de Porto (rouge ou blanc) qui peut provenir de plusieurs Quintas d'un seul millésime et qui vieillit minimum 7 ans en fut depuis les vendanges. On peut le retrouver comme assemblage pour les Tawny.

Les Portos de type oxydatif

Pour les Portos en milieu oxydatif (typé Tawny et par ordre croissant de qualité)
- le Tawny : il représente à peu près 40% de la production. C'est un Porto qui suit un élévage en barrique et qui est un assemblage de vins de différentes années. Les mentions Fine Tawny (3 à 5 ans d'élevage) ou Reserva Tawny (5 à 8 ans d'élevage) indique une montée en qualité des vins assemblés. Dès que l'on atteint 10 ans, ce sont les Tawny avec mention d'âge (10, 20, 30, 40 ans et + de 40 ans d'âge).

Produit obligatoirement dans la haute vallée du Douro, au Portugal, le Porto doit son nom au port d’où il doit nécessairement être expédié pour mériter son appellation. Sa principale caractéristique est que c'est un vin muté à l'alcool (équivalent des vins doux naturels en France), ce qui arrête sa fermentation et lui permet de conserver du sucre résiduel. La classification des Portos en 6 catégories provient des Anglais qui ont souhaité codifier ce commerce même si les Français sont devenus les premiers consommateurs mondiaux de Porto à la fin du XIXème siècle.

Comme vous pouvez le voir, le monde du vin de Porto est un monde complexe avec des règles bien définies. En tout cas, ce sont des vins riches porteurs d'une histoire et surtout d'excellents produits aux qualités indéniables reconnues par le monde entier et notamment par des critiques comme Robert Parker.

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